Captured: Genderless label UY is Berlin's past, present and future

UY’S GENDERLESS FASHION REFLECTS THE SOUL OF THE CITY. CREDIT: HARIT SRIKHAO FOR LURE

UY’S GENDERLESS FASHION REFLECTS THE SOUL OF THE CITY. CREDIT: HARIT SRIKHAO FOR LURE

 
 

THE ICONIC BERLIN FASHION LABEL TAKES ITS PLACE IN THE CITY’S HISTORY.

UY Studio serves up genderless looks that echo the minimal beats and simple silhouettes of Berlin's techno underground.

Since 2013, the label's monochrome leather skirts and low-cut tanks put Berlin aesthetic on display.

But take a closer look at Berlin's past and you'll see how UY follows in the footsteps of others who've paved the way for the German capital's liberal spirit.

In the 1600s — long before two World Wars, fascism and communism shook the city to its core — Berlin was a bastion of religious tolerance, immigration and diversity. And scholars trace the first gay-rights movement back to 1890s Berlin.

The city's complex past of terror and tolerance, division and unity — the history that made UY possible — is on display in thousands of memorials and monuments scattered throughout Berlin.

Thai artist and recent Berlin transplant Harit Srikhao examines UY's place within Berlin's history in his photo-collage series UY/HS.

Partnering with both LURE and UY, Harit set out to explore the specters of old Berlin and place them in conversation with the label's timeless aesthetic.

"I wanted contrast, but also harmony — just like Berlin," Harit told LURE.

Check out the photo series below, with exclusive commentary on the UY looks and monuments that inspired his work.

 
 
harit-srikhao-uy-berlin-bismarck-tiergarten-postcard

LOCATION: Bismarck Memorial in Tiergarten

Harit Srikhao: I placed UY's models and its shop shelves in the middle of the monument and adjusted the colors of it so it appeared like a tourist postcard of Berlin.

harit-srikhao-uy-berlin-pergamon-statue-michelangelo

LOCATION: Pergamon Museum

For some reason, this shot became very personal for me.

When I first saw this beautiful female model from UY, I thought about Michelangelo’s David. As such, I replaced a male statue with her striking a pose.

harit-srikhao-uy-berlin-neptune-fountain-leather

LOCATION: Neptune Fountain

This shot was inspired by a very interesting conversation I had with the art director at LURE.

We noticed that the the texture of the leather in this piece appeared to be similar to the skin of the sculpture — smooth and sleek. I tried to play with this idea in this image.

harit-srikhao-uy-berlin-pergamon-david-copperfield

LOCATION: Pergamon Museum

The golden ring in her hands made me think about a magician's tool, or something relating to magic.

So I cut her into two like David Copperfield used to do. Her profile thus floats just like the bust — almost as a mirror image of the sculpture.

harit-srikhao-uy-berlin-goethe-monument-leather

LOCATION: Goethe Monument

Personally, I think that leather and marble put together provides beautiful harmony.

harit-srikhao-uy-berlin-pergamon-greek-statue-black-bodies

LOCATION: Pergamon Museum

The artwork on the left-hand side of this picture is an Ancient Greek sculpture, which I believe is titled: "I, who think about myself in the past."

The most important idea in this picture is attempting to connect the beauty of black bodies in harmony with the pensive nature of this work, as well as the concept of beauty in Ancient Greece.

harit-srikhao-uy-berlin-pergamon-bust-grocery-store

LOCATION: Pergamon Museum

I have this strong positive feeling about Berlin that young people and creatives do not try to destroy old things or what came before them. Rather, they try to create something new that's still very much connected with history. I tried to portray this feeling in this image.

Harit_Srikhao_UY_LVRE_june2019-8.jpg

LOCATION: Pergamon Museum

There's a similarity here between the UY model and a sculpture I came across in the museum.

For me, they look totally the same, once again reflecting this idea of harmony between past, present and future.

harit-srikhao-uy-berlin-soviet-memorial-older-woman-red-leather
 
 

LOCATION: Soviet War Memorial in Tiergarten

I really like this mature model — she looks very elegant. Therefore, I removed the Soviet statue and replaced it with her.

Underneath is the red sheep from the science museum. The color provides a striking contrast.

Share this story